raised beef and onions, but make it ragù. That's "la Genovese," a classic Neapolitan sugo, in a nutshell. (It's not Ligurian, despite its name.) Carrots, celery, a ton of onions, and a "seconda scelta" (literally, "second choice") cut of beef, which we would call a "tough" cut, slowly cooked down with white wine to form a meaty gravy, perfect for dressing al dente ziti from nearby Gragnano, the dried pasta capital of Italy. Compared to its famous, chock-full-of-meats Campanian cousin, ragù Napoletano, la Genovese is remarkable for its simplicity.
1 1/2 pounds (700g) boneless beef chuck roast, trimmed and cut into 4-by-3-inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup (60g; 60ml) lard or extra-virgin olive oil (see note)
3 1/2 ounces (100g) carrots, peeled and cut into small dice (2 small carrots)
1 celery rib (75g), trimmed and cut into small dice
3 pounds (1.4kg) yellow or red onions, thinly sliced, divided
1 tablespoon (15g) tomato paste
1 cup (240ml) dry white wine, divided
1 bay leaf
5 ounces (150g) cherry tomatoes (optional, see note)
1 pound (450g) short tubular dried pasta such as ziti, paccheri, or rigatoni (see note)
1 loosely packed cup (1/2 ounce; 15g) fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, finely chopped
Finely grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Season beef all over with salt and pepper; set aside and let sit for at least 45 minutes before cooking.
Meanwhile, in a large Dutch oven, heat lard or olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add carrots and celery, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add roughly 1/3 of the onions (about 1 pound; 450g), season lightly with salt, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are also softened but not browned, about 5 minutes.
Add tomato paste and 1/4 cup (60ml) wine. Use a wooden spoon to stir and scrape the bottom and sides of the pot to release any stuck-on bits, then spread onion mixture into an even layer covering bottom of the pot. Reduce heat to medium-low and add beef, nestling pieces into onion mixture in a single layer. Cover beef with remaining onions (about 2 pounds; 900g), add bay leaf, season lightly with salt, and cover pot with lid.
Cook, uncovering and stirring occasionally to ensure vegetables and beef aren't sticking to bottom of the pot, until onions are very soft and have released their moisture, about 1 hour. Adjust heat as needed to maintain a gentle, steady simmer, and try to keep a layer of onion mixture between beef and bottom of the pot.
Crack lid slightly so that pot is not completely covered and continue to cook until beef is tender, offering little resistance when pressed with a wooden spoon or poked with a paring knife, about 1 hour and 30 minutes longer. Using tongs, remove beef and bay leaf; set beef aside to cool slightly and discard bay leaf.
Add remaining 3/4 cup (180ml) wine and cherry tomatoes (if using) to onion mixture and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Once beef is cool enough to handle, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces and add back to the pot. Season with salt to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes begin to burst and mixture is reduced to a saucy braised ragù consistency, about 15 minutes. You can coax the beef pieces into breaking down slightly by prodding them with a wooden spoon, but don't overdo it; the goal is to have a mixture of distinct pieces of beef and some shredded bits that meld into the sauce.
Meanwhile, in a pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta until just shy of al dente (1 to 2 minutes less than the package directs). Using a spider skimmer, transfer pasta to the sauce, along with 1/2 cup (120ml) pasta cooking water. Alternatively, drain pasta using a colander or fine-mesh strainer, making sure to reserve at least 1 cup (240ml) pasta cooking water.
Increase heat to high and cook, stirring rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is thickened and coats noodles, 1 to 2 minutes, adding more pasta water in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed. Remove from heat, add parsley, and stir rapidly to incorporate. Season with salt to taste. Serve immediately, passing grated cheese at the table.
