A one-pot dish that's defined by the nutty, bitter, woodsy, and floral notes imparted by a mix of spices and herbs.
8 urheri pods (grains of Selim), seeded
6 erhe seeds (calabash nutmeg), shelled
2 gbafilo seeds, shelled and roughly chopped
2 umilo seeds, shelled and roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon alligator pepper (grains of paradise)
1/2 teaspoon uziza seeds
For the Pepper Soup:
1 small chicken (about 2 pounds; 905g), cut into 2-inch pieces (see note)
2 quarts (1.9L) cold water
2 teaspoons ground crayfish (see note)
1 teaspoon (4g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus more to taste; for table salt, use half as much by volume or the same weight
1/2 teaspoon Nigerian red dry pepper or cayenne pepper, plus more to taste
6 fresh lemongrass leaves, divided (see note)
1 large (or 2 small) fresh makrut lime leaves
2 to 3 sprigs fresh scent leaf, finely chopped, for garnish (see note)
Boiled yam, plantain, white sweet potatoes, or cooked white rice, for serving
Unrefined West African red palm oil, for serving
For the Spice Mix: In a small stainless-steel or cast iron skillet, combine urheri, erhe, gbafilo, umilo, alligator pepper, and uziza. Over medium-low heat, toast spices, stirring and swirling frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, about 10 minutes. Transfer spices to a spice grinder and grind until a crumbly, coarse powder forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Empty into a small bowl; set aside.
For the Pepper Soup: In a large stockpot, combine chicken, water, ground crayfish, salt, cayenne pepper, half of the lemongrass, and prepared spice mix. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Simmer until chicken is cooked through and tender, but not falling off the bone, about 45 minutes (the time may vary depending on how the meat was cut).
Add lime leaves and remaining lemongrass. Season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Let stand to allow flavors to develop, about 10 minutes.
To serve, divide chicken between warmed soup bowls. Ladle broth on top, garnish with scent leaf, and serve with or alongside boiled yams, plantains, white sweet potatoes, or rice, and a small bowl of palm oil for dipping.
The spice mix can be stored in an airtight container at cool room temperature for up to 6 months. Store away from light and heat.
Pepper soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 2 months.
